The ever-evolving neighborhoods of Bangkok are constantly on the brink of minor gentrification, offering new tenants a chance to improve while preserving the region's true charm and essence. The Melting Block is a nostalgic photographic series, capturing Bangkok’s historic neighborhood of Songwat from 2018 to 2022, before the onset of gentrification. This visual documentation isn’t meant to undermine the positive impact of gentrification on Songwat. Rather, it’s my personal interpretation of the unexpected changes that could transform this beloved neighbourhood into something unrecognizable. It deeply reflects my devotion and gratitude for the area, as well as the fear of losing something truly special. While gentrification offers a golden opportunity for Songwat to regain its former vibrancy, there’s a risk that over development could strip the area of its authenticity.
In 1906, King Chulalongkorn planned Songwat Road along the Chao Phraya River to ease overcrowding and expand commercial and residential areas beyond Bangkok’s Chinatown, Yaowarat and Sampeng. The 1.2-kilometer road connected the river to the Chinese community, becoming a hub for people of all nationalities and religions. Over time, it gave rise to rice warehouses, spice shops, temples, mosques, schools, and Chinese shrines, blending architectural styles from various cultures.
Strolling through the history etched in its timeless architecture, Songwat was once my stomping ground for photography. Just a few years earlier, I began to notice the emergence of new businesses. The neighborhood is experiencing a rapid resurgence, thanks to a new generation working to revive their family’s legacy and restore the lively atmosphere it once had. Songwat has subtly woven its past and present into every corner, blending tradition with modernity. While this shift benefits the community, I couldn’t help but feel uneasy about the rising costs, as many of these businesses cater more to tourists than to locals. Gentrification has its pros and cons. Although it boosts the economy of the neighborhood, I can’t help but wonder about its impact on local residents, legacy businesses and those who have always called Songwat home.
Today, Songwat remains a vibrant neighborhood on the edge of Bangkok’s Chinatown, where upscale restaurants, cafes, galleries, and hostels blend with classic architecture and a distinctly Chinese atmosphere. Once lined with warehouses and European-style shophouses, it continues to thrive as a trading hub, attracting a diverse mix of residents and visitors to its riverside location. Though Songwat may not be as lively as in its heyday, its century-old charm still lingers. While the preservation of architectural features, especially the facades, seems to be a priority, modern development is gradually reshaping the area, and there’s a risk that its unique character could eventually fade.
Inspired by a melting block of chocolate with a hint of packaged spice commonly seen in Songwat, this photography zine reflects on the neighborhood’s shifting nature due to gentrification. When change is pushed too far, like chocolate exposed to too much heat, the charm of the place starts to dissolve under the pressure to make room for something new. When done perfectly, it sparks awe; but overdo it, and it turns into a messy puddle, like a block of chocolate left to melt. It’s a bittersweet transformation.
2025
Indigo Printing
Size: 125 x 88 mm
Bangkok, Thailand
